FAQ

Here is a list of our most frequently asked questions. If you need more information before purchasing or can’t find an answer to your question feel free to contact us by visiting our contact page.

General FAQ

Encapsulation can reduce moisture entering from the soil and outdoors, which may improve conditions associated with musty odors. It does not guarantee that mold will disappear or correct active leaks, contaminated materials, drainage failures or HVAC problems. Those conditions should be identified and addressed as part of the overall plan.

Cost depends on crawl-space size and height, access, removal needs, membrane type, foundation surface, number of piers and penetrations, spray-foam area, water conditions and whether an access door or dehumidifier is included. Attis provides a free on-site estimate with a written project scope.

What to expect

Step What happens
1. Conversation Tell us what you are noticing, which areas are involved and how the building is used.
2. Assessment We review accessible insulation, performance, air-leakage pathways, moisture indicators and project constraints.
3. Scope You receive a recommendation identifying the proposed material, area, preparation and exclusions.
4. Installation/Job The crew protects work areas, completes the agreed installation, and manages site conditions.
5. Review We clean the work area and inspect/review the completed scope and any follow-up considerations.

Call or text Attis Insulation at 570-534-4545 or use the website contac form. Share the property address, areas of concern and any photos or known moisture history so the visit can be prepared efficiently.

Many insulation projects can be completed year-round, but product requirements, substrate temperature, ventilation, and jobsite conditions can affect scheduling—especially for spray foam. The project should be evaluated before a date is promised.

It depends on the project and property. Confirm the municipality for the address and ask its building code office about permits. If the home is in a private community, check that association’s current approval process separately.

No. Removal may be justified when insulation is wet, contaminated, pest-damaged, or preventing needed air sealing and repairs. Material in serviceable condition may sometimes remain and be supplemented.

It can be part of the solution, but moisture and air movement must also be addressed. Ground vapor, drainage, foundation conditions, ductwork and existing water entry should be evaluated before choosing an insulation or encapsulation scope.

Spray foam can combine insulation and air control in a compact application. Fiberglass is cost-effective and flexible for many open attics and framed cavities. The safest recommendation comes after reviewing the location, substrate, ventilation, moisture and code requirements.

Great question—and a common concern. Closed-cell spray foam doesn’t absorb water, so it won’t hold moisture against the wood or let it spread through your attic.

If a roof leak does happen, the foam can make it a bit less obvious at first since it’s bonded directly to the roof deck. But it doesn’t cause rot—wood rot only develops when moisture sits for a long time without being addressed.

As long as your roof is in good condition before installation and any future leaks are caught and fixed in a timely manner, closed-cell foam is a safe and reliable option for finishing an attic space.

When it comes to closed-cell spray foam insulation, thickness matters—not just for energy efficiency, but also for air sealing and moisture protection.

While some data sheets say 1 inch of closed-cell foam can act as a vapor retarder and give you a decent R-value (around R-7), that doesn’t mean it’s fully doing the job of a moisture or air barrier.

Here’s what third-party product testing and evaluation reports say:

  • 1.5 to 2 inches of closed-cell spray foam is typically needed to qualify as a Class II vapor retarder
  • 2 inches or more is for efficient moisture control and full performance

Just applying a thin layer—or “flashing”—doesn’t mean your building is sealed from air or moisture. For closed-cell foam to truly work as intended, it needs the right thickness.

Simply adding insulation isn’t going to address any air leakage. A properly air-sealed attic floor, top plates and rim joist prevent this unwanted airflow, making your insulation far more effective. Together, air sealing and insulation will help your home maintain the desired temperature for longer periods — cutting energy costs and improving indoor health and comfort.

Air sealing is the process of closing off any gaps, cracks, seams, or holes in your home’s exterior shell — often called the “building envelope.” Whether you’re trying to keep out winter’s chill or summer’s heat, sealing these openings is the first line of defense in protecting your home from the elements.

Closed Cell Spray foam is about 4 times more dense than the Open Cell Spray Foam.  On top of the benefits that spray Foam insulation provides Closed Cell Spray Foam is also a vapor, moisture, and rodent barrier. Open Cell is not suitable for every installation due to its inability to stop moisture and the R-value that matches most conventional fiberglass insulation solutions. Due to it’s density, Closed Cell Spry Foam also carries a lot of “Wracking Strength” that promotes and reinforces the structural stability of the whole structure that is insulation with Closed Cell.

In this great article by Mason Knowles, published  on Feb 22, 2018 by Spray Foam Magazine. The author explores the results of a field study and Closed Cell Spray Foam structural support and resilience substantiated by lab tests. https://www.sprayfoammagazine.com/foam-news/trying-to-reason-with-hurricane-season/3215

 

 

In this great article by Mason Knowles, published  on Feb 22, 2018 by Spray Foam Magazine. The author explores the results of a field study and Closed Cell Spray Foam structural support and resilience substantiated by lab tests.

 

From <https://www.sprayfoammagazine.com/foam-news/trying-to-reason-with-hurricane-season/3215>

 

Spray Polyurethane Foam used to help protect structures during hurricane season | SprayFoam Magazine News – SprayFoamMagazine.com

Loose-fill insulation should not be done as a DIY project for many reasons; here are a few:

You shouldn’t install loose fill by hand; the material has to be conditioned in a specially designed BLOWER machine that breaks and agitates the insulation.

  1. The material from the Blower machine must pass a corrugated hose, which continues the material conditioning process.
  2. If material is not properly conditioned and installed, you lose on: R-value, yield, and energy. You can also inadvertently introduce a major moisture issue to your home.

Email Us Directly: AttisInsulation@gmail.com

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